조완구 Wan Goo Cho

DOI:

Abstract

World consumers are now focusing on their health, well-being and appearance more than ever before. This trend is creating heightened demand for products formulated as cosmeceuticals with active ingredients. A significant number of innovative formulations are now being used in cosmetics with real consumer-perceivable benefits and optimized sensory attributes, resulting in an economic uplift of cosmetic industry. To obtain skin care formulations with real consumer-perceivable benefits through dermal delivery of active ingredients, formulators are resorting to technology that until recently was used in pharmaceutical products. These various delivery systems are now being used in cosmecuetical formulations. Novel delivery systems reviewed here possess enormous potential as next-generation smarter carrier systems.

Key Words

transdermal, delivery, cosmeceuticals, vehicle, DDS

이명렬 Myeong Ryeol Lee , 정춘복 Choon Bok Jeong , 정유철 Junng Yu Chul , 김한곤 Han-kon Kim , 남개원 Gae Won Nam

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Abstract

Skin darkness is the source of trouble to many women. Skin darkness is the state that while skin redness and brightness are reduced, skin yellowness is increased. Skin translucency which is measured by skin color, especially brightness is an another expression of skin darkness. Skin brightness is usually expressed by L value of L* a* b* (CIELAB color space system). However, it is hard to find the relationship between L value and perceptive efficacy such as translucency because the L value is just a factor of evaluation of skin darkness. The skin with high translucency has high scattering reflective light value than low value. In this study, we measured the skin translucency of 20 ~ 30 ages men and women face by both our designed previous device which use polarized light to detect surface and scatter reflective light independently and Lumiscan^TM which is improved designed to confirm our new device working ability by calculation of relationship between trnaslucency and scattering reflective light value. The result of this study indicate that there is a high correlation (R = 0.732, p < 0.01) between translucency and scattering reflective light value, and suggest that Lumiscan^TM is portable and easy measuring device more that previous device.

Key Words

translucency, scattering reflective light, L* a* b*, skin darkness, Lumiscan^TM

김정은 Jung Eun Kim , 김아름 A Reum Kim , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

The moisturizing effect and stability of a cream containing 0.25 % Inula britannica flower ethyl acetate fraction were investigated. The pH, viscosity, and absorbance were measured under 4 different temperature conditions( 4, 20, 37, and 45 ℃) and under the sun light at 2 week intervals for 12 weeks. The variations in pH and viscosity of all experimental creams were similar to those of control cream. The absorbance variations of the extract from experimental cream at 330 nm were in the order: under the sun > 45 > 37 > 25 > 4 ℃. It shows that ethyl acetate fraction in the cream can be oxidized under the sun. In addition, any change in color or smell was not observed through 12 weeks of the experimental period. These results showed that the cream were stable. Accordingly, it is suggested that further study is needed to provide more information to the manufacturers, who are seeking for the application of the extract to improve the anti-oxidant and antibacterial activities and stability of cosmetic products.

Key Words

Inula britannica flower, stability, clinical trial, corneometer, TEWL

김준우 Joon Woo Kim , 이종수 Jong Soo Lee , 이지혜 Ji Hye Lee , 정석진 Suk Jin Choung

DOI:

Abstract

Sunscreen is divided into the organic agent of UV absorption and inorganic agent of reflection. These are evaluated by sun protection factor (SPF) in-vivo test requiring high cost and time, while in-vitro tests are adopted commonly because of short test time, easy result collection. Generally, test method of SPF use SPF 290a by UV-vis spectrometer. The evaluate by SPF 290 has low reproducibility. Although analysis using UV-vis spectrometer has high reproducibility, it is hard to separated results of transmission, adsorption, and reflection. In this study, suggested method of elipsometer has some merit such as high reproducibility, easy separation of transmission/ adsorption/re- flection, analysis using various incident angle. We tested the validity of elipsometer for SPF measurement, using commercially available sun-block (SPF 50).

Key Words

UV screening agent, elipsometer, sun protection factor

이혜진 Hye Jin Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, the antioxidative activity, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase, and active components of Quercus salicina Blume extracts were investigated. Q. salicina Blume was extracted using 50 % ethanol, from which ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions were prepared. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀) of Q. salicina Blume aglycone fraction was the highest (8.25 μg/mL). The luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay showed that reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of Q. salicina Blume aglycone fraction on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/H₂O₂ system was the most prominent at 0.039 μg/mL. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Q. salicina Blume against the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 25 μg/mL). Especially, τ₅₀ of aglycone fraction in 10 μg/mL concentration showed the most protective effect at 259.9 min. The inhibitory effects (IC₅₀) on tyrosinase and elastase of Q. salicina Blume extracts were higher at aglycone fraction (respectively, 21.82 μg/mL, 41.18 μg/mL). Active component analysis by TLC and HPLC showed quercetin, keampferol, catechin, quercitrin, isoquercitrin, hyperoside, and etc. These results indicate that Q. salicina Blume extract has strong antioxidative activity and can be used as antioxidant. Particularly, aglycone fraction of Q. salicina Blume showed superior antioxdative activity and high inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase. Therefore, aglycone fraction of Q. salicina Blume could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

Key Words

Quercus salicina Blume, antioxidative activity, flavonoid, cosmetics

채가연 Ga Yeon Chae , 권륜희 Ryun Hee Kwon , 장민우 Min Woo Jang , 김민정 Min Jung Kim , 하배진 Bae Jin Ha

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated rice bran fermented by Bacillus subtilis (RFB) at 40 ℃ for 36 h to develop a new natural antioxidant and whitening agent for new natural cosmetics. RFB showed reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities in 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical, superoxide radical scavenging activities and hydroxyl radical scavenging activities at a concentration of 100 μL/mL. DPPH, superoxide radical scavenging activities and hydroxyl radical scavenging activities were higher in the RFB than in the RB. Inhibitory activity on auto-oxidation of linoleic acid is also highest at a concentration of 100 μL/mL. RFB showed the higher inhibitory activity than RB in auto-oxidation. RFB reduced intracellular tyrosinase activity about 80 % at a concentration of 100 μL/mL. Therefore, we suggest that RFB could be used as a useful antioxidant and whitening agent.

Key Words

rice bran, fermentation, antioxidant, whitening, tyrosinase

임경란 Kyung Ran Im , 김미진 Mi Jin Kim , 윤경섭 Kyung Sup Yoon

DOI:

Abstract

To develop a new natural cosmetic hair care product for scalp treatment, we investigated the effect of enzyme modified (Viscozyme, Pectinex) oriental medical prescriptions on hair growth and melanogenesis. Enzyme modified oriental medical prescriptions showed the antioxidative effect, inhibitory effects on lipoxygenase activity and 5α-reductase activity and melanogenic activity. In human irritation test, they did not show any adverse effect. Based on these results, we suggest that enzyme modified oriental medical prescriptions may potentially be used in a cosmeceutical hair care product for scalp treatment.

Key Words

oriental medical prescription, hair growth, melanogenesis, 5α-reductase

정은선 Eun Sun Jung , 김승범 Seung Beom Kim , 김무한 Moo Han Kim , 신승우 Seong Woo Shin , 이종성 Jong Sung Lee , 박덕훈 Deok Hoon Park

DOI:

Abstract

N-feruloylserotonin (FS) and N-(pcoumaroyl) serotonin (CS), serotonin derivatives, which have been isolated as major and unique phenolics of safflower seed extract (SSE), are member of hydroxycinnamic acid amides and are implicated in the defense against pathogen infection and insect feeding. In this study, we evaluate inhibitory effects of N-(p-Coumaroyl)serotonin and N-Feruloylserotonin on adipogenesis using oil-red O staining, triglyceride and GPDH activity. we found that while serotonin itself did not suppress differentiation of preadipocytes into adipocytes, N-(p-Coumaroyl)serotonin and N-Feruloylserotonin inhibited the differentiation of preadipocytes into adipocytes in a concentration-dependent manner. In addition, they showed antioxidant effects in DPPH assay. Taken together, these results show that N-feruloylserotonin (FS) and N-(pcoumaroyl) serotonin (CS) suppress differentiation of preadipocytes, suggesting the possibility that these serotonin derivatives can be utilized as an anti-obesity agent.

Key Words

serotonin derivatives, anti-obesity, adipogenesis, GPDH, triglyceride

김주덕 Ju Duck Kim

DOI:

Abstract

Women starts to make up after high school graduation. They have low economic power. But they select cosmetics by themselves and have high demand. Therefore, they can be major customers of low-priced cosmetics and it can be regarded as independent cosmetics market. Thus, this study analyzes the purchasing propensity of lowpriced cosmetics in female undergraduates, who are main targets of low-priced cosmetics, satisfies the more customers desire through further segmenting the targets, suggests a continuous developmental plan for low-priced cosmetics through securing potential customers and segmenting market, and analyzes and typologizes female undergraduates lifestyle. The aim is to grasp the actual condition of using the low-priced cosmetics and the satisfaction with purchase, and to utilize it as basic date of inducing right consumption culture of female undergraduates. For this study, 305 reliable questionnaires are analyzed from the total 320 questionnaires and spss win 15.0 program was used. The results were as follows. About 90.1 percent of female undergraduates had experience using low-priced cosmetics and standard of priority selection was the quality of low-priced cosmetics. The main reason not to use was low price image.

Key Words

low-priced cosmetics, actual condition of using, purchasing behavior

김민지 Min Ji Kim , 양현갑 Hyun Gab Yang , 박수남 Soo Nam Park

DOI:

Abstract

In this study, antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects of Geum aleppicum Jacq. extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. extract (4.70 μg/mL) showed the most prominent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC₅₀). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities (OSC₅₀) of some G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts on ROS generated in Fe³⁺-EDTA/ H₂O₂ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity (0.22 μg/mL). The protective effects of extract/fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. against the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 25 μg/mL), particularly the ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (τ₅₀, 416.20 min at 10 μg/mL). The inhibitory effect of G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated to assess their whitening and anti-winkle efficacy. The half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) of the ethyl acetate fraction on tyrosinase was 95.23 μg/mL. The IC₅₀ of 50 % ethanol extract and the ethyl acetate fraction on elastase were 6.27 μg/mL and 4.31 μg/mL, respectively. These results indicate that extract/fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging ¹O₂ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Especially the ethyl acetate fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant, antiaging.

Key Words

Geum aleppicum Jacq., reactive oxygen species, antioxidative activity, antiaging, cosmetics